Encens #55 spring summer 2026

ENCENS n°55 unfolds as an immersion shaped by the number five — a passage through decades, images, and attitudes that continue to define how fashion is seen today.

The issue begins in 1955, with René Gruau’s drawings for Christian Dior: elongated silhouettes, endless gloves, pearl necklaces, and women suspended between elegance and fiction. 1965 follows with André Courrèges and the radical clarity of optic white.

In 1975, peasant references entered fashion through Yves Saint Laurent and Kenzo Takada, while night culture blurred social codes — punks and aristocrats sharing the same rooms, the same music. Klaus Nomi appears here as a defining figure, performing Henry Purcell over new wave pulses.

The trajectory reaches 1985, between power dressing and Japanese deconstruction, before arriving in the present: the emotional precision of Giorgio Armani and the controlled tension of Hed Mayner, where rigor meets volume.

A fictional issue, and a sharp perspective on the present through layered references, visual memory, and shifting forms.